Santa Fe: New Mexico History Museum - Dr Fran Levine & Ernest Thompson Seton, Museum of Fine Arts, Galleries

Wednesday, September 15th

An amazing day of connection and learning and beauty.

Journal:

A kiss for Dr Fran Levine from her cousin Michael Nolan in SF

Dozing interspersed with a paragraph or two from Conference of the Birds. Heave-ho'ed at 9am and washed hair, determined to 'hit Santa Fe' (either galleries or museums, but SOMETHING) at 10am. Put in a call to Dr Fran Levine -- kissing cousin of Michael Nolan and Director of the New Mexico History Museum and Palace of the Governors -- which she returned shortly after 10am just as I was sitting down to my granola. Skedaddled down to the Plaza pronto, as the only time she had to meet us was 'now-ish'. Met (11-11.30am) on the outside terrace of the museum's Cowden Cafe in the shade, sipping Agua de Jamaica (hibiscus juice). Fran was attentive and seemed genuinely touched by Wren's Mile in Their Shoes project -- esp the community involvement and the inspirational video aspects. She suggested the best people to connect with in Santa Fe would be the Director of SITE Santa Fe (where the Art Biennial is hosted) and the City of Santa Fe Arts Coordinator -- both of whom are close friends of hers -- and (on something of a side tangent related to Wren's recycled bangles made by Malian women from rubber shoes) also suggested we look into the Santa Fe International Folk Art Market.

New Mexico History Museum in Santa Fe

Stumbled upon 'Wild at Heart', the (temporary) exhibit about Ernest Thompson Seton (1860-1946). What an inspiring person. Went from being a wolf trapper (following in his grandfather's footsteps, killer of the last Scottish wolf in the 18th century) to being a naturalist and defender of wildlife (and inspiration to the likes of Sir David Attenborough). He was a co-founder of the Boy Scouts (though had some kind of falling out with Baden-Powell) and of the Woodcraft movement. But (interestingly) before he went 'back' to the wilderness, he attended the Royal Academy in London (and paid visits to the London Zoo) and also the Academie Julian in Paris.The man could draw. And his keen observations of nature also held water in biology and zoologoy circles. Impressively multi-talented and idealistically committed. // Then traced New Mexico's history from 1610 to the present in the most engaging, best laid-out, most contemporarily (is that a word?) narrated museum exhibit I've ever been to. Well done Fran Levine! The museum just opened in May of 2009 in a specially built new wing behind the Palace of the Governors, Santa Fe's first museum housed in one of the oldest buildings in the United States (dating from 1610).

Lunching al fresco at Cafe Paris

Late lunch outdoors at Cafe Paris (shouldn't that be 'Cafe de Paris'?), a 'True Montmartre Cafe' in leafy Burro Alley -- French onion soup and seafood salad topped off with a Napoleon. // Wandered back down Palace Avenue towards the Museum of Fine Arts and stopped in at a couple galleries. LewAllen Galleries had an exhibit on of Timothy Schmitz (ground marble and oil on canvas and wood panel), and some amazing glass work by Steve Klein (among other artists). Patina Gallery lured us in with Michael Wisner's clay pots with incised surfaces that make them look like woven baskets; the craftsmanship is mind-blowing. He sources the clay from his back yard in Colorado and the whites and blacks and browns are all natural (ie not glazes). Polly Whitcomb makes charming sculptures out of rusted metal and old wooden planks, combined with 'fresh' clay pods. And Boris Bally fashions old street signs into chairs and tables and bowls -- humorous and fabulous. Not to mention all the beautiful jewellery.

Museum of Fine Art in Santa Fe

Finally made it to the Museum of Fine Art and curator Joe Traugott's Sole Mates: Cowboy Boots and Art. Studded with stunningly stitched cowboy boots, of course, but the show was 'really' about exposing the myth of the cowboy and displaying how various artists have sought to undermine it. And then there was Drip Tease, a collection of John Tinker's vaguely humorous explorations of (solid, non-dripping) drops and drips. Stopped in at the gift shop and fell in love with Michael Michaud's leaf ear-rings cast in bronze from the actual organic matter using a traditional wax casting method. // Thirsty, we started home but dallied by the vendors who spread their wares along the covered promenade in front of the Palace of the Governors, and like magpies descended on the colorful Day-of-the-Dead paper mache dolls outside at the Rainbow Man's, to then discover inside an authentic Maria Martinez black-on-black vase we could actually touch (until now all her work has been behind museum glass).

Sunset veiwed from Emaho's terrace

Got home about 6pm to find Elena and Stefan (and Barbara) scrubbing the kitchen until it gleamed. Did laundry. Yvette came by to pick up Barbara for dinner,and the (remaining) four of us had left-over vegetable green curry over rice outside on the terrace along with very pleasant dinner conversation. After Wren and Stefan had left to tap on their computers, Elena and I stayed and talked about multi-cultural youths (hers: Dad Greek, Mom German, Berlin till 5, Athens till 19, Germany for university) and coming to oneself through 'letting go' and travel. A wonderful day, full of inspiring people and creativity and expression, and beauty.