Sunday 5 September 2010

Albuquerque's 19 Pueblos Museum & Earthship in Mountainair

Sunday, Sept 5th

I'm writing from deep inside an earthship, encased within walls of tires packed with soil and tin cans mortared with cement. But you wouldn't be able to tell if you didn't know -- it feels on the inside like a spacious adobe, with organically curving walls dividing the space and white-washed pine wood ceilings. There's a composting toilet and a solar shower in the bathroom; cold water and gas burners in the kitchen; and electricity throughout.

Jo Sage learned from the master -- Michael Reynolds in Taos -- and has spent the last 20 years gradually expanding her home and building two more earthships on this property down an unpaved road off of HWY 47, which connects Bevel (?) with Mountainair.

This is where artists in residence under the auspices of The Land/An Art Site gallery (see yesterday's blog) reside while developing their outdoor projects on the gallery's piece of land down the road a mile or so. Edite & Tom, the co-founders of the gallery, thought we'd be interested in seeing The Land and graciously suggested we stay overnight in one of the earthships. What a fabulous co-incidence / confluence of events; what blessed generosity.

+++++

Awoke 7am - Motel 6. Tea & granola. Phone calls (Basia success), contact lists, photo downloads and backups. Dip in the 3 1/2 foot3 pool (so tiny). WalMart for staples like English Breakfast Tea. Lunch Panda Express. Wrangled with freeway on-off ramps some more; poor signage. / Afternoon (2-4.30pm) at 19 Pueblo Museum. Dance performance outdoors -- 'caller' and his 2 sons (2yrs & 9yrs) and pairs of mature dancers. Pity the 'Buffalo Dance' performers, all suited up in 100F heat. Upstairs exhibit of pots (recently made) and woven blankets; also special exhibit of the pueblo saints. Downstairs each of the 19 had a display case of it's own. Interesting 20min film on Maria Martinez (?) Who revived and perfected certain techniques, creating (among other designs) a line of luscious shiny-and-matt black pots with exceptionally fine shallow carvings. / Wren finally got Emaho (Healer, and Santa Fe contact) on the line, and we need to get up there pronto as he's leaving for another European tour on Wednesday. Got some stud ear-rings in the shop. / Drove down to Mountainair (25-60-47), stopping at the Lowe's in Bevel (?) for some groceries and bottled Texas municipal water (...at least they're honest...). Bumped down the overgrown lane, due West and blinded by the late afternon sun. Stopped by The Land and saw a car but no Jeffrey or Larry. Arrived at Jo Sage's around 6.30pm and she had us sign a waiver, then showed us 'round. / Beer and salsa on our 'front porch' overlooking an endless expanse of red earth and scrub to a pink and orange horizon. Spaghetti for dinner. / Amazed and grateful.
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