Having too much fun singing karaoke to blog tonight...
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Saturday, 21 August 2010
Friday, 20 August 2010
Phoenix - Imogen Departs & Third Friday
Wren: "I do believe not a day has gone past where we haven't made some wonderful connection."
We checked out Third Friday this evening, the somewhat edgier 'open galleries' alternative to First Friday's Art Walk -- thanks to a tip from Byron's friend Chris Danowski. We cruised down Roosevelt, East of Central, and pulled up at the Modified Arts Gallery, where people were milling about outside. "Converging Trajectories: Crossing Borders, Building Bridges", curated by Ted Decker, was showing inside. A gaggle of beaded chickens, hanging painted pillows, a video of a man masturbating to the (real-time) audience viewing the video (are we art-goers the real wankers?), a photo of crumbling Grecian ruins but out of sand. I was drawn from one piece to the next; curious, delighted.
Handed a pamphlet on the exhibit by Sam Chung, I struck up a conversation and it emerged he'd made the two beautiful Korean-inspired porcelain vases by the window. He pointed out the curator -- that gentleman over there with the white hair in the blue shirt. Ted was the long-time curator at the Arizona State University Museum, and three years ago resigned to branch out on his own. He's been back and forth to Brazil over the course of the past 7 years, and 3 years ago dedicated himself to putting together this show of local artists whose work he admires.
Justin Germain is a recent (?) MFA Art History grad who Ted is encouraging to pursue his dream of turning Phoenix into a center for Green / Sustainable/ Creative Interventionist Art. Justin is organizing his first show in February 2011, and it looks like there may be a match with Wren's work.
Wiping the sweat from our brows (the gallery had a few fans going, but Phoenix continues to bake even after dark), we migrated to the gallery next door which everyone kept telling us did have functioning A/C: the Eye Lounge. One artist's exploration of 'being out in the wilderness' (in a Biblical sense), through stereotypical Southwestern desert tropes (cacti, kokopelli, etc) and a puppet show; a painter's series of miniature wood-block portraits of her artist friends; and a darkened room-full of 6"x6" photographic prints on vellum illuminated from behind by candles, very romantic. We enjoyed a cold beer while watching a hand-puppet snake tempt Jesus with waffles and bagels, perused the arty store at the back (which is the front, during the day), but didn't stay too long.
++++++
Imogen left today. Her last wish was to set foot in a WalMart, so we made a pilgrimage en route to the airport. "George" is an Asda brand Brits enjoy, but Americans get that and many more. It wasn't even an especially large WalMart, but it did the trick. Disappointingly, the datebook Imogen wanted to buy as a souvenir (each country's datebooks have their own peculiarities) was on recall (a datebook on recall??), the cashier informed us, and would not be processed by the register.
++++++
Journal: W&I up earlier than me, but had an extended breakfast together. All much better rested and in much better spirits. Final packing by Imogen, then excursion to the WalMart (& T-Mobile & Starbucks) by Exit 2 off of 51N. Got to the airport 2 hrs early for Imi's Southwest flight to LA, and browsed the airport shops. Flight delayed till 2.35pm. It's a long flight (Phoenix - LA - Toronto - London) for a 16 year old to be taking on her own. / Wren and I spent the afternoon on downloading photos and admin -- tallying receipts for gas and car rental and accommodation and food, and comparing our expenses to the budget. Seems we're within bounds, which came as a huge relief. / Then Third Friday, from 7-10pm. Finally, some late night computering. / I am in much better spirits tonight.
We checked out Third Friday this evening, the somewhat edgier 'open galleries' alternative to First Friday's Art Walk -- thanks to a tip from Byron's friend Chris Danowski. We cruised down Roosevelt, East of Central, and pulled up at the Modified Arts Gallery, where people were milling about outside. "Converging Trajectories: Crossing Borders, Building Bridges", curated by Ted Decker, was showing inside. A gaggle of beaded chickens, hanging painted pillows, a video of a man masturbating to the (real-time) audience viewing the video (are we art-goers the real wankers?), a photo of crumbling Grecian ruins but out of sand. I was drawn from one piece to the next; curious, delighted.
Handed a pamphlet on the exhibit by Sam Chung, I struck up a conversation and it emerged he'd made the two beautiful Korean-inspired porcelain vases by the window. He pointed out the curator -- that gentleman over there with the white hair in the blue shirt. Ted was the long-time curator at the Arizona State University Museum, and three years ago resigned to branch out on his own. He's been back and forth to Brazil over the course of the past 7 years, and 3 years ago dedicated himself to putting together this show of local artists whose work he admires.
Justin Germain is a recent (?) MFA Art History grad who Ted is encouraging to pursue his dream of turning Phoenix into a center for Green / Sustainable/ Creative Interventionist Art. Justin is organizing his first show in February 2011, and it looks like there may be a match with Wren's work.
Wiping the sweat from our brows (the gallery had a few fans going, but Phoenix continues to bake even after dark), we migrated to the gallery next door which everyone kept telling us did have functioning A/C: the Eye Lounge. One artist's exploration of 'being out in the wilderness' (in a Biblical sense), through stereotypical Southwestern desert tropes (cacti, kokopelli, etc) and a puppet show; a painter's series of miniature wood-block portraits of her artist friends; and a darkened room-full of 6"x6" photographic prints on vellum illuminated from behind by candles, very romantic. We enjoyed a cold beer while watching a hand-puppet snake tempt Jesus with waffles and bagels, perused the arty store at the back (which is the front, during the day), but didn't stay too long.
++++++
Imogen left today. Her last wish was to set foot in a WalMart, so we made a pilgrimage en route to the airport. "George" is an Asda brand Brits enjoy, but Americans get that and many more. It wasn't even an especially large WalMart, but it did the trick. Disappointingly, the datebook Imogen wanted to buy as a souvenir (each country's datebooks have their own peculiarities) was on recall (a datebook on recall??), the cashier informed us, and would not be processed by the register.
++++++
Journal: W&I up earlier than me, but had an extended breakfast together. All much better rested and in much better spirits. Final packing by Imogen, then excursion to the WalMart (& T-Mobile & Starbucks) by Exit 2 off of 51N. Got to the airport 2 hrs early for Imi's Southwest flight to LA, and browsed the airport shops. Flight delayed till 2.35pm. It's a long flight (Phoenix - LA - Toronto - London) for a 16 year old to be taking on her own. / Wren and I spent the afternoon on downloading photos and admin -- tallying receipts for gas and car rental and accommodation and food, and comparing our expenses to the budget. Seems we're within bounds, which came as a huge relief. / Then Third Friday, from 7-10pm. Finally, some late night computering. / I am in much better spirits tonight.
Thursday, 19 August 2010
Sedona
Eco Art/Architecture: non-flush, composting toilets in Red Rock Country
Highlights of the day:
1. Red Planet Diner
2. Cathedral Rock (& park)
- and the stunning red rock formations of Sedona, more generally
3. Holy Cross Cathedral
- modern A-frame glass-fronted church perched atop two massive boulders
4. Dinner with the Auguste clan (in Phoenix)
Journal:
Wren had a sleepless night and was driven out of the tent by the heat of the 7am sun. Turned out we'd found one of the only patches of prickly-pear-fee ground around. Drove direction Sedona for breakfast and happened upon the Red Planet Diner -- with decor be-fitting Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy. Stopped by Visitor's Center and the bejeweled volunteer there suggested three scenic (and flat-ish) trails to us, near three different vortices (she noted the heart vortex was situated not far from her house, in a residential neighborhood and hence not much frequented by tourists). Drove up Bodega <check> pass road, looked in on the Enchanted Resort, then back-tracked to Fay Canyon. W&I were going to picnic but we all three ended up napping edgily in the heat, bombarded by insects. Decided to leave for Phoenix; took in the view from Airport Mesa and the Holy Cross Cathedral on the way out of town. Left about 4pm for the 100-odd mile trip to Phoenix. Sedonas red rock 'mountains' gave way to flattish desert plains rimmed by low (coz distant) blue (coz distant) mountains...then to mesas and volcanic-like cone-shaped hills closer to Phoenix. And the classic (S---) cactus made its first appearance (the cacti from Lucky Luc, you know). Arrived at the Downtown Super 8 (Van Buren x 11th Str) about 6.30pm. W decided she was too exhausted to go out again, and Imi decided to stay in with her, so went on my own to the Auguste extended family dinner at an Italian in Scottsdale. Anita (mom) & Sophie (sis) welcomed me; was intro'd to the hubby's and kids around the table; Ronald & Joseph & Maurice/Morris -- the 3 brothers; sat next to Chris, B's highschool friend; and Byron arrived after picking up Juliette and Nelson from the airport. They're off to the Grand Canyon tomorrow. 'Home' about 11pm after following Chris most of the way on his motorbike, W&I just turning off the lights. They'd ordered in Domino's and watched T----- epsiodes.
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Wednesday, 18 August 2010
Flagstaff - Museum of N Arizona
Eco Art: umm...still all eager anticipation on that front...
Highlights of the Day:
1. Coffee with Lori Goldberg
- Someone Wren met in NYC on her trip there a few weeks ago to meet up with Salif Keita; turned out she spends her summers in Flagstaff. Is building an orphanage in Haiti (husband is a stockbroker with Merrill Lynch). Turns out she knows some young guys building homes out of containers, who we might be able to meet up with in Phoenix or Tucson.
2. Flagstaff Photographers Gallery & Raechel Running & James F.
- Raechel is the photographer who's show is opening at FPG tonight. She's interested in the 'one-ness' of indigenous cultures stretching from the Colorado Plateau across the border into Mexico. She suggested a number of places for us to visit further south (inc across the border) -- and she'll be there herself in Sept, so our paths may cross again
- James F. Is the young gallery co(?)-founder, who just held an exhibit on (and gave a workshop on) wheat-pasting. We'd seen examples of wheat-pasted B&W street art on S. Beaver Str on our previous wanderings -- and apparently there's a Navajo (?) Artist who has various indigenous sites (on reservation land?) covered in it.
3. Museum of Northern Arizona
- Fabulous little museum with a fantastic collection of Hopi-Navajo-Zuni pottery, rugs, basket weaving, dolls, jewelry -- and great exhibits on the history and anthropology of indigenous peoples. Plus a highly instructive exhibit on the geology of the Colorado Plateau, complete with timeline and dinosaur skeletons. The bookstore and gift shop were fab too.
4. Drive to (and through) Sedona along Hwy 189
- Like driving through the Grand Canyon (or at least: the last mile of our hike, ie the bit closest to the rim). Spectacular cliffs and red rock and verging-on-Monument-Valley-like formations. Love the signs that read 'Watch Out For Rocks'. Someone had inserted a sticker reading 'Big Red' [rocks]on one of them. We'll visit Sedona 'properly' tomorrow
Journal:
Short night (1am-6am). Emailed from BB in bed. Feeling down. Manchester girls in my dorm room left early for the Grand Canyon. Talked with V. Hostel breakfast 9.45am. Showered, packed, checked out for 11am. Headed over to Macy's with Imogen to join Wren & Lori. 12.30 took a walk around Flagstaff (finally). Stopped in at Bureau of Environment (picked up some info on green building). Had lunch at DB's (organic burger joint in odd cylindrical building with fairytale mural) on the main square. Happened to stop in at Photography Gallery as we were heading back to the hostel - and had nice contact with Jason and Rachael. Stopped in at dingy gallery I'd located on previous wander and bought Hopi ring. 3pm-5pm Museum of N AZ, just north of the center. 18 miles to Sedona, first woods then descending hairpin bends overlooking dramatic rock landscapes. Sedona itself (at least the bit along 189) = upscale mall-ville, v touristy. Didn't inspire us to stop, and we continued to Cottonwood, another 12miles or so south. Debate about dinner & accommodation resulted in Greek salads at the Verde Lea deli and 'back-country' camping off 189.
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Tuesday, 17 August 2010
Flagstaff - Sunset Crater
Basically a recovery day. Wren and I got massages at Mountain Waves; ended up taking most of the afternoon. Another monsoon downpour. Flooded at least one street in Flagstaff (broken main? creek overflowing?). Lunched on salads about 4pm back at Macy's European Cafe on S. Beaver.
Visited Sunset Crater (5-8pm), a volcano 1000 years young. Youngest one in the USA, anyway. The terrain around the hill is black and choppy, as though giants had ploughed fields of peat. Except the 'peat' is volcanic rock, in blacks and browns, interspersed with volanic gravel. Blacks and reds and greens.
There's a paved 1/4mile circuit with info boards, then a mile circuit through the lava field. Subtle smell - smoky-sweet tar mixed with pine? Photos of rocks and red puddles. Wren communing with the Evening Primrose, opening its petals as dusk fell.
And we were treated to a firey sunset, molten orange
Stopped by the Safeway on the way back to the hostel; cooked up a ravioli dinner 'back home'; laundry night; blogging...
Visited Sunset Crater (5-8pm), a volcano 1000 years young. Youngest one in the USA, anyway. The terrain around the hill is black and choppy, as though giants had ploughed fields of peat. Except the 'peat' is volcanic rock, in blacks and browns, interspersed with volanic gravel. Blacks and reds and greens.
There's a paved 1/4mile circuit with info boards, then a mile circuit through the lava field. Subtle smell - smoky-sweet tar mixed with pine? Photos of rocks and red puddles. Wren communing with the Evening Primrose, opening its petals as dusk fell.
And we were treated to a firey sunset, molten orange
Stopped by the Safeway on the way back to the hostel; cooked up a ravioli dinner 'back home'; laundry night; blogging...
Grand Canyon - Bright Angel Trail back up
Monday August 16th
4.30am wake up call,5am pancake breakfast. Wren moving slowly and creakily due to painful hips-thighs-knees. Asked if there was a spare mule (for a ride up to the rim) or a spare bed that night (to give her a day to recover) -- negative on both counts.
Took us 12hrs in all to get back to the South Rim, creeping along with many a pause along the way. Don't know what was worse for Wren - pain in the joints, or the heat. At Indian Garden, 6.6 miles up the canyon (and still another 4.7 miles from the Rim), it was 80F in the shade, 120F in the sun.
August is monsoon season in the Grand Canyon, did you know? It's something I learned from Ranger Emily. And experienced first-hand around 1pm. Torrential downpour. Thankfully we were already sheltering (from the sun) at the rest station above Indian Garden. Drops like bullets. Temperature must have dropped 40 degrees and it felt downright chilly. Steps built into the pathway transformed into puddles, if not lakes. Miniature waterfalls of red mud water sprang to life at cliff edges.
Flagging spirits restored, we set off again around 1.30pm and got to the top by 5pm, cloud cover still in place. Rejoiced as we made it to the top, the encouragement of colleagues of 'Dorothe' ringing in our ears (about 700 members of a French advertising company were on a US roadtripn together -- and we must have crossed at least 500 of them on the trail).
Brief visit to the Kolb brother's photography studio (now a gift shop and gallery),then blue shuttle bus back to the parking lot and our car; got sworn in as Junior Rangers (and got the treasured badge) at the Visitor Center by Ranger Schenk; and raced over to the Yavasupai canteen for a large helping of spag bol.
Drove the 75miles back to Flagstaff in the dark (amazing sunset off to the West); overnight again at the Grand Canyon Hostel, arriving about 9.30pm.
4.30am wake up call,5am pancake breakfast. Wren moving slowly and creakily due to painful hips-thighs-knees. Asked if there was a spare mule (for a ride up to the rim) or a spare bed that night (to give her a day to recover) -- negative on both counts.
Took us 12hrs in all to get back to the South Rim, creeping along with many a pause along the way. Don't know what was worse for Wren - pain in the joints, or the heat. At Indian Garden, 6.6 miles up the canyon (and still another 4.7 miles from the Rim), it was 80F in the shade, 120F in the sun.
August is monsoon season in the Grand Canyon, did you know? It's something I learned from Ranger Emily. And experienced first-hand around 1pm. Torrential downpour. Thankfully we were already sheltering (from the sun) at the rest station above Indian Garden. Drops like bullets. Temperature must have dropped 40 degrees and it felt downright chilly. Steps built into the pathway transformed into puddles, if not lakes. Miniature waterfalls of red mud water sprang to life at cliff edges.
Flagging spirits restored, we set off again around 1.30pm and got to the top by 5pm, cloud cover still in place. Rejoiced as we made it to the top, the encouragement of colleagues of 'Dorothe' ringing in our ears (about 700 members of a French advertising company were on a US roadtripn together -- and we must have crossed at least 500 of them on the trail).
Brief visit to the Kolb brother's photography studio (now a gift shop and gallery),then blue shuttle bus back to the parking lot and our car; got sworn in as Junior Rangers (and got the treasured badge) at the Visitor Center by Ranger Schenk; and raced over to the Yavasupai canteen for a large helping of spag bol.
Drove the 75miles back to Flagstaff in the dark (amazing sunset off to the West); overnight again at the Grand Canyon Hostel, arriving about 9.30pm.
Grand Canyon - South Kaibab Trail to Phantom Ranch
Sunday August 15th
4am alarm, 5am green shuttle bus to the South Kaibab trail head at the Eastern end of the South Rim, and walking by 5.30am.
South Kaibab is the steeper and shorter of the two trails to Phantom Ranch at the bottom of the Grand Canyon. Turns out it was too steep for Wren's knees & hips, and she was in significant pain before we were half way down. Awesome(majestic - superlative - chunky - wizard - stunning) views all the way, nonetheless.
Reached Phantom Ranch around 11am, got ice for Wren's knees, and we all took a nap.
4pm 'Grand Canyon Jeopardy' with Ranger Emily -- informing us of the geology - history - animals - plants in the canyon, 5pm dinner (steak or vegetarian chile), 7.30pm talk about the Kolb Brothers (adventurers and photographers) by Emily, followed by scorpion spotting (they shine flourescent green under black light, did you know?)
4am alarm, 5am green shuttle bus to the South Kaibab trail head at the Eastern end of the South Rim, and walking by 5.30am.
South Kaibab is the steeper and shorter of the two trails to Phantom Ranch at the bottom of the Grand Canyon. Turns out it was too steep for Wren's knees & hips, and she was in significant pain before we were half way down. Awesome(majestic - superlative - chunky - wizard - stunning) views all the way, nonetheless.
Reached Phantom Ranch around 11am, got ice for Wren's knees, and we all took a nap.
4pm 'Grand Canyon Jeopardy' with Ranger Emily -- informing us of the geology - history - animals - plants in the canyon, 5pm dinner (steak or vegetarian chile), 7.30pm talk about the Kolb Brothers (adventurers and photographers) by Emily, followed by scorpion spotting (they shine flourescent green under black light, did you know?)
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